Day 10: Munich to the Black Forest

Wednesday, July 21 : München to the Black Forest

The day dawned cool and sunny. We rode west out of town past the BMW world headquarters and the 1972 Olympic site. Our first stop for the day was in Dachau, at the former Nazi concentration camp. All the barracks were torn down then two were reconstructed for display. Administrative buildings housed a museum. At the opposite end of the grounds were five chapels for various religions, and the crematorium. This was not an extermination camp but thousands died from overwork, disease, and horrible medical experiments. Many high school groups arrived before we left, and 3 of the teachers mistook Andy for one of their students and admonished him to stay with the group! From Dachau, we rode to Oberammergau, a village known for its Passion Play, performed every 10 years with local citizens as actors, and for its shops filled with wood carvings of religious figures. This was purely a shopping stop but we didn't stay long and the weather was pleasant enough for a walk. From here we took a scenic detour on the German Alpine Road, which took us briefly down into Austria then back into Bavaria for a lunch stop near Neuschwanstein, King Ludwig the Second (Mad King Ludwig) castle. We had sandwiches and beer at the restaurant there. Back on the road again, we now saw many orchards and hops vines and entered into the Black Forest region. It's not so black anymore, and many of the trees are dying. We drove through Friedrichshafen, home of the Zeppelin company and factory, then made a pit stop at Basilika Birnau, a beautiful church on the north shore of lake Bodensee. It is set among vineyards and has a view of Switzerland on the south shore. Later made a quick and questionable photo stop at Lake Titisee and a few minutes later, nearly 11 hours after leaving Munich, arrived at our country inn Hofgut Sternen, located between the towns of Titisee and Neustadt. Marie-Antoinette stayed there in 1771. Behind the inn was a trail up into the wooded hillside along a stream with waterfalls. That night, we dined at the inn on wild boar and trout. Dessert was real Black Forest cake (local sour cherries and real cream). We had good local white wine - we were in extreme southwest Germany, near the Rhine. After dinner, we got some local kirschwasser (cherry schnapps) and sipped it at a picnic table outside. Black Forest farmers are allowed to produce 80 gallons a year.

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